Letters from Israel-Palestine
Update 6- The H in Apartheid
Date: Wednesday, the 30th of April, 2008
Between 1 and 2 am on Tuesday, April 29, I stood guard at an orphanage
run by the Islamic Charitable Society in Hebron. An order for closure
was put on the orphanage, to go into effect yesterday; the military has
visited the site three times already, and have said that anyone
(Palestinian) still in the building starting April 28 could be arrested
and held for five years in prison.
Standing guard consisted of sitting near the door with my laptop,
playing a computer game, with music coming out of the the headphones
around my neck; about four or five times, I paused what I was doing to
mute the music, and listened more closely to the sounds of the Hebron
night, which never amounted to anything much. There were plenty of
night dangers to imagine in the wind which blew through the courtyard,
islamic prayer flags flapping against the building.
Shortly after 6am I was awoken and surrounded by curious girls, mostly
wearing hijab; residents of the orphanage, who were surprisingly
immodest about being near me, while I slept shirtless. We were about
eight men in in the corridor, sleeping on thin mattresses on the
ground, having pulled one hour shifts each all night long. No military
came.
We were from different backgrounds in many ways: mostly US-ers,
although a Quebecois (also Jewish), and a couple of Germans were also
among us. While the man in charge of the Sewing Workshop inside the
orphanage showed us around, using the phrase "the Jewish" to refer to
Israeli administration (as in, "we got a permit from the Jewish"), I
jokingly wondered whether I was one of "the Jewish" who had invaded and
threatened this orphanage in the past months. I considered correcting
him, this professional who I was just meeting for the first time, and
who was showing me around, but I let this language issue slide.
20 internationals in all ate breakfast together this morning, who had
been organized by the CPT (Christian Peacemakers Team) to be able to be
present, engage verbally with soldiers, and document what happens when
the military comes in to close down the place. The back-story is
something like this:
The Islamic Charitable Society runs a lot of ventures in and around
Hebron; perhaps several dozen businesses, including bakeries, and a
mall. I was inspired hearing about businesses they have set up to
support their projects, so that it's a mix of for-profit, and benefit
organizations that are run by the society; it's a model I would like to
pursue further myself. In recent years, the military has started
leaning on the ICS: confiscating computers, stealing files, in the last
couple of years going so far as to destroy access to their offices, so
that they can't administer properly (welding shut the doors). More
recently, it has stepped up to a point that the Israeli military are
destroying, stealing and damaging machines and infrastructure (stealing
sewing machines, setting bakery ovens on fire), making any part of any
project connected to ICS completely non-viable.
Why? Sewing machines? Orphanages? The claim put forth by the military
administration is that ICS has been taking money from, has connections
to, perhaps is giving money to, Hamas. The man who showed me around
presented matter-of-factly that, as a nonprofit, their finances were an
open book, that you can see where their donations are coming from
(mostly Europe and North America), and that they don't receive or send
any money from/to Hamas.
This is still kind of besides the point: an orphanage, even one
partially funded by Hamas, is still an orphanage. A sewing machine is
not a weapon. And it's important to note, this orphanage is in H1*.
And so they anticipate the military entering the building, having
scoped it several times already, to destroy a good amount of the
infrastructure, and welding the doors shut to prevent the use of the
space. The CPT wants to make sure that the kids who are sleeping there
stay safe, and that, whatever happens, it gets documented.
After breakfast, we split up, and I head with some folks to Bethlehem,
and then along with the Germans back to Jerusalem, where I'm back
around 9am. As far as anyone knows, the status of the Orphanage is no
different now than it was yesterday: slated for closure. I could
sleep there the next two weeks solid until I leave the country, and the
military might still not have acted; then again, tonight might be the
night. It's a strange calculus that your brain unfolds in a situation
like this. As I think about it now on a couch in Jerusalem, I'm
thinking: "well, if we just took over a classroom there, and brought in
some couches, some reading material, got an internet connection going
there, I might stay there a week straight." "Ah well," my brain shrugs
off the organizing challenge, and I figure I might stay there another
night or two at some point. I was never much for commutes.
Before Shabbat
On Thursday night, hanging out at Shai's apartment, I asked him, "Hey what are you up to tomorrow?"
"Going on a solidarity visit to Hebron," he tells me. These tours are
organized by Bnei Avraham, I wrote about one last year
[http://www.redsolid.com/writings/ip/2007/u2.html]. I don't have any
plans, I think to myself, and make up my mind to go along with.
The next morning, I walk with Shai and his roommate to Gan HaPa'amon to
catch the bus, leaving at 9:30am. We eventually load in and ship out,
the bus about 2/3 full. I recognize a couple of people from the
progressive Jerusalem Anglo community there, and introduce myself to a
few people I don't know. I sit in back with Shai, who is looking out
the back window to make sure there are no undercover cops tailing us.
He doesn't think there are.
Bnei Avraham refers to a common ancestral heritage, with both Jews and
Muslims claiming descendancy from Abraham. Jews follow the line of
Isaac and Jacob, while the Muslim story tells of Abraham choosing
Ishmael for his lineage. The battalion that serves in Hebron-- fully
500 soldiers, nearly as many as the number of Jewish settlers in
Hebron-- gets swapped out every six months, because it is hard and
dangerous to serve there, and also so that soldiers don't get too cozy
with any of the local residents. Bnei Avraham was started by soldiers
who served in Hebron several years ago, members of a socialist youth
group, who were moved by their witnessing injustice to create a
relationship with Palestinians living under occupation in H2.
Although we weren't confident that we would be admitted into Hebron, we
got in no problem, as a tour bus filled with Israelis and
internationals. We parked near the Cave of the Patriarchs, (where
Sarah, Abraham, Isaac, Rebekah, Jacob and Leah were buried-- a holy
place for Jews, Christians, and Muslims) and filed off the bus. We
walked through the streets of H2-- Jewish-controlled Hebron-- and
talked about the significance of certain places, many of them places
where someone had been killed at some point in the last 80 years. The
road, although designed for heavy use, is pretty much deserted;
military orders prevent Palestinians from using this main road in H2,
so we only need to scoot out of the way of a small number of settlers'
cars, who blare their horns at us as they pass. Eventually we make it
past Beit Hadassah, one of the more prominent Jewish settlements inside
H2, and to an area where Palestinians are once more allowed on the
street. We follow our host and guide up the hill to Tel Rumeida, where
we trudge off to visit a family and drink tea.
Like many Palestinian homes in Tel Rumeida, they need to use a back
entrance to enter, due to the closure placed on the main road. In this
case, it meant ducking below a 5-foot high thatched trellis for
grapevines, and walking carefully through a yard. With frustration, the
mother of a house tells us how, last week, when her son had an asthma
attack, he needed to be carried along this route; the ambulance wasn't
allowed past the checkpoint up the main road. Our host points out to us
that, in medical emergencies, delays like this can easily mean the loss
of life.
They told us the stories of their day-to-day struggles; the soldiers
and settlers throwing garbage down upon them, shouting curses at them,
attacking and harassing their children on the way to school, property
destruction. I know these stories. I still don't know what it's like,
or how this can continue, but I've heard the stories. Whatever
compassion I feel for these people, I wonder that they don't just
leave, move to H1. "And who could we sell our house to?" comes the
response. Now I get it. It's an economic thing.
People here are living in a crappy situation for the same reason anyone
anywhere would decide to: they don't feel they can afford another
option, quite literally.
Our particular visit was set up as a "solidarity visit," as distinct
from some other tours that Bnei Avraham offers, introducing people to
the situation there. Our group was composed of people who would like to
express solidarity with the Palestinians of Hebron, and so a fitting
action was planned. Black t-shirts were distributed, on which was
written in white block letters: "I have a dream." Our visit, taking
place over Passover, also marked 40 years after the original occupation
of a Hebron hotel by Rabbi Levinger and a group of Jewish settlers in
1968. A few signs were distributed, reading in Arabic and English
things like "Stop settler violence." Highly controversial, I know. We
walked down the street, chanting slogans intermittently, but mostly
just walking down the street.
It was over in just a few minutes, and it went the same way as the last
time I came here last year: the Palestinians walked with us on 200 feet
of road that they are typically prevented from walking on, as a
symbolic protest, and then they split off from the group behind the
barriers and back to their neighborhood on the hill. A couple of
settlers got in our faces... one man holding a video camera grabbed a
sign out of an Israeli's hands, and threw it on the ground. Meanwhile,
the police and soldiers stood beside, and tried "talking him down."
This is the tactic of the law enforcement of the area: like the parent
of an extremely angry child, just talk them down. It's going to be
okay, sweetheart.
We arrived at the first bus as planned, and as far as we could tell,
the day was pretty much over. Some people filed into the bus, and I
continued walking with others continued walking to get to the second
bus, which had come from Tel Aviv. Then, in a predetermined fashion,
several soldiers and border police surrounded Amos, a key organizer,
and brought him into their police jeep.
A group of Anarchists Against the Wall, perhaps twelve Israelis in all,
sat down in front of the jeep, and linked arms, typical nonviolent
disobedience style. I sat down on the edge of the group. Soldiers
started hauling the young men off to the side, and physically
restrained them from re-entering the road. I stuck around to make sure
my friends were okay. By this time, the bus we had come on arrived, and
most of us piled on, but between the settlers confronting us, and
people who just didn't know what to do, the bus ended up unable to move
for probably another 20 minutes, while settlers and Palestine support
activists swapped insults. The bus finally headed out, and to the
police station at Kiryat Arba (the settlement next-door to Hebron), to
pick up Amos.
At this point the local authority decides to detain all of us, and
demands to see identification documents before letting us go. It's
worth mentioning at this point that, besides for those who interfered
with police action, we didn't do anything illegal. It is perfectly
legal for both Israelis and internationals to be in H2, the Israeli
controlled side of Hebron. The basis for our detainment was basically
that the settlers didn't like us being there. And the settlers control
the situation on the ground.
Perhaps an hour later, anyone who offered their ID information was
allowed onto the first bus, which made its way through the gate of the
Kiryat Arba police station, only to be met by a volley of things thrown
at it-- mostly eggs. With a clouded windshield, and an 8-year old
standing in the road with his dog in order to block us, we backed up
into the police station, and ended up waiting another couple of hours
for police/soldier backup. This was one of the first times I got a
sense of what it was like for people who went to register black voters
in the south: the "people" are all against you, willing to use violence
against you, and the authorities will protect them. It's as if the
schoolyard bully has been given tacit support and protection from the
administration of the school.
They were obviously not going to detain, arrest, or indeed give any
consequences to the settlers who were assaulting us, despite the fact
that we were predominantly a group of Israelis that the army was
ostensibly in charge of protecting. The soldiers did, however, fan out
on the sides of the bus, and run alongside it, physically allowing it
to pass through the settlement relatively unharmed, and back to the
main roads, which took us back to Jerusalem barely in time for Shabbat.
I often don't like the term Apartheid to be used when talking about
Israel, or the Wall, or the situation here; the situation here is
complex, and isn't South Africa. I can't say worse, or better, I can
say different. But there is a great similarity in terms of the creation
of different sets of rules for the people living in the same place. The
US functions in some of the same ways for migrant workers that live
there. I don't want to point it out as unique: just a clear example of
injustice.
And what do we do when we notice injustice anywhere?
Well, we write about it.
Alright, I gotta head out for the day, stop haunting my friend's apartment for awhile.
B'shalom wa salaam,
Jacob in J-Town
For pictures of our "solidarity visit" to Hebron [http://www.flickr.com/photos/activestills/tags/hebron/]
For more backstory on the orphanage: [http://www.ipsnews.net/news.asp?idnews=42151]
H1, H2 explanation (from [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hebron])
Since early 1997, following the Hebron Agreement, the city has been
divided into two sectors: H1 and H2. The H1 sector, home to around
120,000 Palestinians, came under the control of the Palestinian
Authority, in accordance with Hebron Protocol. H2, which was inhabited
by around 30,000 Palestinians, remained under Israeli military control
in order to protect some 600-800 Jewish residents living in the old
Jewish quarter, now an enclave near the center of the town. During the
years since the outbreak of the Second Intifada, the Palestinian
population in H2 has decreased greatly, the drop in large part having
been identified with extended curfews and movement restrictions placed
on Palestinian residents of the sector by the IDF for what it says are
security needs, including the closing of Palestinian shops in certain
areas. Settler harassment of their Palestinian neighbours in H2 was a
reason for several dozen Palestinian families to depart the areas
adjacent to the Israeli population.
RedSolid > Writings > Israel/Palestine Writings > 2008 > Update 6- The H in Apartheid