Letters from Israel-Palestine


I/P One: Sov Shavua Sov

Date: Thursday, the First of January, 2009

The world is upside-down, and spinning. For those of you under a rock, or more to the point, not in Israel/Palestine, this past Shabbat the Israeli military began an air offensive against the people of Gaza, specifically targeting the leadership of Hamas in an effort to completely destroy their capacity as an organization. It seems Israel has taken a tip from United States history and decided that, if Israel doesn't like a democratically-elected regime, it can do something about it (albeit a regime presiding over a territory which launches rockets at Israel.) And, similar to Lebanon, it claims to be acting in response, while the plans for this particular operation have been in the works since the beginning of the ceasefire, six months ago.

This past week has been confusing and pulling me in different directions, one of which has been protest. Learning about the attack on Saturday afternoon, I felt a huge amount of anger and sadness, and immediately after shabbat ended I got onto a bus organized by activists to bring us to an impromptu demonstration in Tel Aviv. About 500 people gathered, and a small march towards the defense minstry brought us to an area of sidewalk where we were unable to continue further due to a police barricade. It was, for the most part, a quiet protest; six determined Israelis (including a friend of mine) went to take the street and were arrested.

The week of Christmas I went to Bethlehem three times; twice with a Jewish person I'm connected to through Machon Pardes, a co-ed yeshiva out here, and their associated friends, and once on Christmas eve with a group of Germans. I got to reconnect with Palestinians in the Bethlehem/Beit Sahour area: my friend the souvenir salesman, my friends working at the IMEMC (International Middle East Media Center.)
Over Christmas, Bethlehem was still hopping until the wee hours of the morning with tourists, which was fun; Bethlehem is usually pretty quiet at night. The accompanying militarized Palestinian security forces cordoning off the area adjacent the Church of the Nativity were a surprising addition to the festivities.
A treat for me was getting a tour of Deheisha on Christmas Day. The tour guide recounted how, back in 2002, when a woman living in Deheisha did a "suicide-attack" in Jerusalem, people in Deheisha were nationalistically pleased, out in the streets waving flags. (It's still challenging for me to believe that people are ever gladdened by violence!)
He went on to tell of a good, quiet friend of his from the camp, who killed himself in an attack, unbelievably, and how that shifted his perspective, to where he felt personally against the attacks, and adds to that a political analysis that he thinks that the attacks politically bring more bad than good for Palestinians, a departure from the predominant feeling six years ago.
He spoke about his support for a one-state solution; moreso than ever before, I don't hear anyone talking about two states as an endgame, which is a rather challenging proposition for Zionism. A Jewish Israeli friend I talked about the question of states with channeled the political hopelessness/realism of the time, and said that she thinks the State won't last. It won't be able to reconcile its conflicts in order to create either two states, or a bi-national federation, which means that a "Jewish state" as such will be a particularly interesting experience that we've gotten to participate
in. Without any meaningful political leadership in this arena, people are dragging out their predictions of when this conflict could possibly be "resolved" on some level. The earliest I've heard is 20 years.

I've now spent three shabbats in Israel/Palestine, and it has changed my reality immensely. On the one hand, I am more grounded in a world that is more-or-less familiar to me: the Jewish culture, the Western amenities, friends who happen to be here. I generally know where I can go and  how much things cost. I'm back in ulpan, learning Hebrew for about four hours every morning (I'm the only non-Arab in my class!).
On shabbat, I pray at a familiar minyan, with people I know. Sometimes, in the afternoon, I wander down to ICAHD (Israeli Committee Against House Demolitions) and see if there's anything I can help out with for an hour or two: documenting, editing, that sort of thing. And I am also experiencing the "situation" with all of its contradicting experiences, and attempt to create some sort of "balance" in my life of who (and whose perspective) I am experiencing in this area. Topping this off with the pain accompanying the witnessing of violence, I am sent for a small tailspin.

In Jerusalem the "alternate reality" manifests in different ways; some people are scared of riding the buses, the sound of an ambulance tearing through the streets brings on a whole extra level of fear and anticipation. Most Jews are still doing their thing, although perhaps tempered with themselves or friends of theirs potentially being called up for reserves.

The Palestinian segment of society is definitely mourning. A general strike was initiated day-of, and lasted for a few days. The Palestinians in my ulpan were specifically not celebrating this new year, because it's not a time for celebration. I can barely imagine what the feeling would be like in Israel if a similar proportion of their society were being killed at the rate of people in Gaza. From the people I've been in contact with, it's about the experience of
their people being targeted, and the betrayal of their leadership (there's a general sentiment that this operation is carried out with consent from Abbas' government.) While governments, for political reasons, have effectively split Palestinians into factions (Hamas and Fatah, Gaza and the West Bank, Israelis, Jerusalemites, and non-Israelis), the people remember their solidarity with each other, and feel the pain just as much.

May the year 2009 bring us compassion and joy, and an end to violence and war.

Yours in J-town,
Jacob

Here's a couple of Ha'aretz articles for you with different political slants.

On the pre-planned invasion: "Disinformation, Secrecy and Lies: How the Gaza Invasion Came About"
[http://haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1050426.html]

David Grossman's "Is Israel Too Imprisoned in the Familiar Ceremony of War?"
[http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1051008.html]

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